The Navimag ferry – Experiencing the vastness of Patagonia

The ferry docked before its departure
The ferry docked before its departure

MAR 6, 2016 – I had booked the four-day ferry trip from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt to experience the distance between central and Southern Chile, and in the hope of seeing more of the diverse landscapes that this part of Chile has to offer. I also did it because I still remembered travelling on a Hurtigruten boat in Norway back in 2005, and I had really enjoyed chilling on a boat for a few days. The standard was a bit lower here: Since this is a cargo ship first and foremost, they were serving relatively basic meals, and terrible instant coffee. But the landscape was really beautiful, and the travel guide on board always pointed out when something interesting was happening, such as whales, dolphins or particular birds appearing near the ship. The only sad part was that the boat was transporting live animals – horses and cows – that were being brought to slaughterhouses further north, but suffered a lot during the journey. Also, they emitted a sickening stench that filled the entire stern of the boat.
Weirdly alcoholic beverages were entirely banned on the ship, so in practice people were drinking smuggled alcohol in their cabins or disguising it as some other beverage. Apparently this rule is due to some drunkards causing a fire some time ago. We all agreed that banning alcohol seems like an overreaction to that, given how much money Navimag could make by selling it on board, and doesn’t really solve a problem. I had seen a mention of the alcohol ban on Navimag’s website previously, but I assumed that meant they would be selling alcohol on board and just wanted to have a monopoly on it.
I was not the only backpacker on the ship – many of them were traveling in the shared cabins, even a few that I had previously met in Puerto Natales. I shared my cabin with Mark from the UK and Jeff from Canada. With Jeff I traveled to Chiloé afterwards, while others continued in different directions.

Leaving Puerto Natales
Leaving Puerto Natales

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Harbor area of Puerto Natales (Photo: Jeff Perry)
Harbor area of Puerto Natales (Photo: Jeff Perry)
Photo: Jeff Perry
Black-necked swans (Photo: Jeff Perry)
Docks of Puerto Natales (Photo: Jeff Perry)
Docks of Puerto Natales (Photo: Jeff Perry)
Sunset at sea
Sunset at sea

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Some lost penguins
Some lost penguins (Photo: Mark Fittes)
Photo: Mark Fittes
Photo: Mark Fittes
A famous old shipwreck
A famous old shipwreck (Photo: Mark Fittes)
Another nice sunset
Another nice sunset (Photo: Mark Fittes)

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Incredibly clear view of the moon and stars
Incredibly clear view of the moon and stars
Passing near a glacier
Passing near a glacier
Live animals being transported on the ferry
Live animals being transported on the ferry
Nice clouds (Photo: Mark Fittes)
Nice clouds (Photo: Mark Fittes)
Group picture, left to right: Ilona and Richard (http://riloplanet.wordpress.com), Mark, Leslie, me, Jeff.
Group picture, left to right: Ilona and Richard (http://riloplanet.wordpress.com), Mark, Leslie, me, Jeff.
Lots of little boats at the intermediate stop in Puerto Edén
Lots of little boats at the intermediate stop in Puerto Edén
Jellyfish (Photo: Jeff Perry)
Jellyfish (Photo: Jeff Perry)
Dolphins (Photo: Jeff Perry)
Dolphins (Photo: Jeff Perry)
Photo: Jeff Perry
Photo: Jeff Perry
Two of the horses died during the trip
Two of the horses died during the trip due to the scandalous living conditions (Photo: Mark Fittes)

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